So for our uni easter project we had to look at the A/W 14-15 shows and pick one we liked, one we didn’t and one from a designer that was completely new to us. We had to immerse ourselves in the shows and emerge with an opinion which we then had to blog about… hence why I am here right now.
Let’s start with the show I didn’t like… Chanel ready to wear. This, I know, is a bit controversial. First things first, I did love the concept of the supermarket set. When I saw people posting photos from the show on Tumblr I was really intrigued and excited to watch the show. I thought it was an innovative idea- showing women wearing fabulous items of clothing in mundane everyday life. I myself am a big advocate of overdressing for any and every occasion because of how it can lift your mood. I felt that the interaction the models had with each other and the products near the end gave the show an authentic feeling, it’s all about the detail. The blinged up baskets were also an interesting touch but I feel normal ones would have made more of an impact and contrasted more effectively with the designer clothes.
Having said all of that I just found the whole thing too busy. What with all the colourful props and the zig-zagging in and out (props to the models for remembering their routes!) it just seemed a bit too much for me. In my eyes it really distracted from the clothes, although I really wasn’t keen on them when they did catch my attention. I am a fan of the long black boots seen later in the show though, they are just beautiful with a dark goth edge. I liked the subtle, neutral make up and think it worked well with all of the different looks. The hair on the other hand I didn’t think worked with the clothes at all. Too hippy and boho where as the clothes had a much more urban feel to them.
The collection didn’t seem to be cohesive or have a natural flow to it. This however could be due to the way the show was filmed which in turn has to do with the twisting path the models took. Overall my main problem with the show was that it was too busy. I really enjoyed the concept and think it would have worked well for a fashion film or photoshoot. Even just having the middle part of the supermarket set would have simplified things and made the show less of a headache.
Moving on to the show I liked- it has to be Alexander Mcqueen womenswear. Firstly lets just talk about the set- a beautiful mossy, grass covered stage with all the lumps and bumps you would expect in nature. The show starts with very dim lights then throughout the lights brighten before fading again at the end mimicking the suns cycle. Although this is pretty subtle it really brings something to the show and gives it a active feel.
Sarah Burton was inspired by “Beauty and the Beast” and “the world through an innocent childs eyes”. This is reflected in the loose child like shapes of the clothes and the long hair braids. Some of the later outfits have a very “gothic lolita” feel to them, dark but childlike, playing around with norms. The whole show gives of a very Icelandic vibe due to the nature inspired set, the fur trimmed ensembles and enhanced by the Bjork music. The Mcqueen edge was very much still present through the leather details and contrasting heavy boots. The make up felt both ethereal and alien at the same time due to the shimmery eyes against pale ghostly contoured.
I think the main reason I enjoyed this show is how it isn’t a straightforward catwalk show but it retains the simplicity of one. By playing around with the ground and the lighting a real atmosphere has been created which complements rather than detracts from the clothes.
Finally on to the designer who was new to me. I have gone with the Donna Karan show. I stumbled upon this show in the sidebar when watching a Dior show and it caught my eye and I realised I had never really seen Donna Karen’s clothes before. This show is the exact opposite of the Chanel show and that is why I love it so much. It was simple, elegant and flawless.
What was particularly spectacular about this show was the film that was played at the start to set the scene. Commissioned by Steven Sebring, the short film features blurred bodies moving in a way similar to the famous “Matrix” moments. The music is industrial and dramatic, almost metal in parts. The opening of the actual show is equally dramatic as the lights fade to black. When they come back up a perfectly straight line of models stand in silhouette at the top of the catwalk, perfectly still. The audience look around the confusion before the first model starts waking. The rest of the show is fairly standard with the models walking down a U shaped catwalk, imagery similar to the opening film playing in the background.
The clothes were elegant and flowing. The collection was full of classic black, smooth caramel and rich berry tones all teamed with matching coloured killer heels. The smokey eyes and understated buns keep the attention firmly on the fabulous creations below. I would say out of the shows I looked at the Donna Karan one is my favourite.
I like my fashion shows to be simple, in that I like straight up and down walks, no crazy directions. I feel if the show itself is too elaborate it takes away from the clothes, which after all is what people are there to see. Both the Mcqueen and Donna Karan shows manage to make the setting, music, hair and makeup complement the clothes beautifully. They push boundaries but know where to stop.
Now to say something I never say- sometimes less is more.